In Zimbabwe, even getting a ticket to enter the falls requires waiting for someone to complete a form by hand, in triplicate, using carbon paper.
Then you make your way to the falls. I just expected it to be flat and empty at the top, like grass or a carpark, but there’s a little rainforest sustained by the spray.
You can hear the falls but can’t see it, and there’s a little bit of excitement as you approach the first viewing area, feeling a bit like Livingstone about to see it for the first time.
Disappointing. Still, it’s 7km long so let’s wander further up.
A bit better. Let’s go the next bit.
Oh. Someone’s turned it off.
It’s been so dry lately, the falls are not in full swing. Oh well.
Here’s a little tip. If you’re the first one down the path in the morning, your face will be the first one to break through all the strands of cobweb between the trees.